Table of contents
Key Takeaways
- You don't need to open your dog's mouth to brush their teeth. Simply lifting the lip and scrubbing along the outer surfaces of the teeth is effective and much easier for most dogs to tolerate.
- Brushing every day is the ideal, but any brushing is better than none. Even a few times a week makes a meaningful difference in your dog's oral health over time.
- Use toothpaste formulated specifically for dogs. Human toothpaste contains ingredients that are toxic to dogs and should never be used.
Dental disease is one of the most common health conditions our vets see, and it's also one of the most underestimated. By the time a dog is three years old, the majority have some degree of periodontal disease, meaning inflammation and infection of the structures that support the teeth. Left untreated, dental disease doesn't stay in the mouth. Bacteria from infected gum tissue can enter the bloodstream and contribute to problems in the heart, kidneys, and liver over time.
The signs aren't always obvious. Bad breath is the one most owners notice first, but it's easy to dismiss as just a normal dog thing. It isn't. Chronic bad breath in a dog is almost always a sign that something is happening in the mouth that deserves attention. Other signs include yellow or brown buildup on the teeth, red or swollen gum tissue, reluctance to chew on hard toys or food, drooling more than usual, and pawing at the mouth. Many dogs with significant dental disease don't show obvious signs of pain, which is part of what makes it so easy to miss. Dogs are remarkably stoic about oral discomfort, and by the time a dog is visibly bothered by their teeth, the disease has often been progressing for some time.
This is where home dental care comes in. Regular brushing goes a long way toward preventing serious disease from developing in the first place, and professional dental cleanings at your vet clinic address what home care can't reach. The two work together, and both matter.
Here's something most dog owners know but don't always act on: their dog's teeth need regular brushing. And here's something most vets know but don't always say out loud: almost nobody is doing it every single day, and that's okay. The goal of this post isn't to make you feel guilty about your dog's dental routine. It's to give you practical, realistic guidance that actually fits into your life, because some brushing is dramatically better than none, and getting started is easier than most people think.
Dr. Storm, lead doctor at Modern Animal in Manhattan Beach, demonstrates the technique with her own dog Rosie, and the approach is about as low-pressure as it gets. No wrestling your dog's mouth open. No expensive equipment. Just a toothbrush, some dog-safe toothpaste, and a dog that's relaxed and in a good mood. Here's everything you need to know.
Understanding what causes dental disease in dogs
To understand why brushing helps, it's useful to understand the process that leads to dental disease in the first place.
After every meal, a thin layer of bacteria-containing film called plaque forms on the surface of the teeth. In humans and dogs alike, this plaque is soft and can be disrupted and removed by brushing. The problem is that if it isn't removed, plaque begins to mineralize within 24 to 48 hours, hardening into tartar, also called calculus, which is the yellow or brown buildup you might notice on your dog's teeth if you look closely. Tartar cannot be removed by brushing alone. Once it forms, it requires professional scaling to remove.
As tartar accumulates, particularly along and below the gum line, it creates an environment where bacteria thrive. The gum tissue becomes inflamed, a condition called gingivitis, and over time the inflammation extends deeper, affecting the ligaments and bone that hold the teeth in place. This is periodontal disease, and it's the most common dental condition in dogs.
The good news is that gingivitis, the earliest stage, is reversible. Periodontal disease that has progressed to affect the supporting bone is not fully reversible, though it can be managed. This is why early intervention, both through home care and professional cleanings, makes such a meaningful difference in long-term outcomes.
What you need to brush your dog's teeth
The equipment list is short and inexpensive. Here's what you actually need.
A dog-specific toothbrush
Dog toothbrushes come in a few different styles. The most common is a standard brush with a long handle and a small head designed to fit a dog's mouth. Finger brushes, which slip over your fingertip and have soft bristles on the end, are another option and can be easier to maneuver for some dogs, particularly smaller breeds. Either works well. The most important thing is that the bristles are soft and the head is sized appropriately for your dog.
For very small dogs, a children's toothbrush with a small head and soft bristles can work just as well as a purpose-made dog toothbrush. The technique is the same regardless of the tool.
Some owners ask about electric toothbrushes for dogs. There's nothing inherently wrong with using one, and the oscillating action may provide slightly more effective plaque disruption. However, many dogs find the vibration and noise unsettling, particularly if they're already new to the brushing process. A standard manual brush is the more practical starting point for most dogs and most owners.
Dog-specific toothpaste
This one is non-negotiable. Human toothpaste contains fluoride and often xylitol, both of which are toxic to dogs. Never use human toothpaste on your dog under any circumstances, even a small amount.
Dog toothpastes are formulated to be safe for dogs to swallow, which matters because dogs don't rinse and spit. They come in flavors that dogs tend to find appealing, including poultry, beef, peanut butter, and vanilla mint, which serves a practical purpose beyond just making the experience more pleasant. A dog that likes the taste of the toothpaste is a dog that's going to be significantly more cooperative about the whole process.
As Dr. Storm demonstrates with Rosie, some dog toothpastes have an enthusiastic response from dogs the moment the tube comes out. If your dog gets excited about the toothpaste, lean into that. It makes everything easier. The toothpaste becomes a reward in itself, which helps build the positive association you're aiming for.
What you don't need
You don't need a dental rinse, a water additive, a special dental diet, or any other product to get started. Those things can all be useful additions to a dental care routine, but they're not prerequisites. A brush and some toothpaste is enough to begin, and adding complexity before you've established the basic habit tends to make the whole thing feel more daunting than it needs to be.
How to brush your dog's teeth: the actual technique
Step one: set up for success
Choose a moment when your dog is calm, relaxed, and in a good mood. After a walk and a meal is ideal, which is exactly the setup Dr. Storm uses with Rosie. A dog that's well-exercised and comfortable is significantly easier to work with than one that's restless, hungry, or overstimulated. This sounds obvious, but the timing of your brushing sessions genuinely affects how cooperative your dog will be, and choosing the right moment is half the battle.
Find a position that's comfortable for both of you. Some owners do this with the dog sitting on the floor in front of them. Others find it easier with a smaller dog in their lap or up on a surface at a comfortable height. The right position is whatever allows you to access the side of your dog's mouth without either of you feeling tense or awkward about it. If you're tense, your dog will feel it. Staying relaxed and matter-of-fact about the whole process communicates to your dog that there's nothing to be concerned about.
Step two: introduce the toothpaste
Put a small amount of toothpaste on the brush and let your dog sniff and lick it before you start. This is partly about getting them used to the taste and partly about building a positive association with the toothbrush itself. If your dog is enthusiastic about the toothpaste, great. If they're indifferent or mildly skeptical, give them a moment to investigate before you begin. Don't rush this step, particularly in the early sessions when you're establishing the routine.
Step three: lift the lip, don't open the mouth
This is the key insight that makes dog tooth brushing much more manageable than most people expect. You do not need to open your dog's mouth. The outer surfaces of the teeth, which are the surfaces most prone to tartar buildup, are fully accessible by simply lifting the lip.
Use your non-dominant hand to gently lift the upper lip on one side of the mouth, exposing the teeth and gum line. Keep the motion gentle and calm. Most dogs tolerate lip lifting much better than they tolerate having their mouth held open, and because you're not restraining the jaw, the dog feels less trapped and is more likely to stay relaxed.
Step four: scrub gently along the gum line
With the lip lifted, use the toothbrush to scrub along the outer surface of the teeth in small circular or back-and-forth motions. The focus should be on the gum line, where the tooth meets the gum tissue, because this is where plaque accumulates most readily and where early periodontal disease begins. You don't need to press hard. Light, consistent contact with the tooth surface and the gum margin is what you're after.
Work in sections rather than trying to cover everything at once. A few teeth at a time is perfectly fine, especially when you're just getting started. Let your dog take a lick of the toothpaste between sections if they want to, just as Dr. Storm does with Rosie, pausing to let her swallow before moving to the next area. It keeps the dog engaged and makes the whole process feel less like a procedure and more like a shared activity.
Step five: work your way to the back teeth
The back teeth, specifically the upper premolars and molars, are where tartar tends to accumulate most significantly in dogs. They're also the hardest to reach. Work your way toward the back of the mouth on each side, lifting the lip further back as you go. Most dogs need a little time to get comfortable with the back teeth being brushed, so don't force it if your dog is resistant in the early sessions. Get comfortable with the front teeth first and gradually work your way back over several sessions.
The inner surfaces of the teeth, the ones facing the tongue, are less prone to tartar buildup and are also harder to access without opening the mouth. For most dogs, focusing on the outer surfaces provides the majority of the benefit. If your dog is exceptionally cooperative and you want to address the inner surfaces too, that's a bonus, but don't stress about it if it's not realistic with your dog.
Step six: end on a positive note every single time
Keep early sessions short, even just a minute or two, and end before your dog loses patience. Follow up with praise, a treat, play, or whatever your dog finds most rewarding. The goal is to build a positive association with the brushing routine so that it gets easier and more natural over time, not to accomplish a perfect cleaning in the first session. A dog that finishes a brushing session feeling good about it is a dog that will be easier to brush next time.
How often do you actually need to brush your dog's teeth?
Every day is the gold standard. Plaque begins to mineralize into tartar within 24 to 48 hours of forming, so daily brushing is the most effective way to prevent accumulation before it hardens. This is what the science supports and what your vet will recommend.
It's also true that most people don't manage it every day, and that's not a reason to give up entirely. Brushing three to four times a week provides meaningful benefit. Even once or twice a week is better than not brushing at all. The key is consistency over time rather than perfection in any given week. A sustainable routine you can actually stick to is worth more than an ideal routine you abandon after a month.
Dr. Storm puts it plainly: she has kids, she runs a clinic, and she doesn't brush Rosie's teeth every single day. What she does is keep it realistic, do it when she can, and not let the perfect be the enemy of the good. That's a reasonable model for most dog owners, and it's a much more useful frame than feeling like you've failed if you miss a day.
Building brushing into an existing routine helps with consistency. If you brush your own teeth at the same time every morning or evening, that's a natural anchor for your dog's brushing session. Some owners find it easier to keep the dog's toothbrush and toothpaste in the same location as their own so it's a visible reminder. Others tie it to another daily ritual, like the post-dinner walk or bedtime. The specific anchor matters less than having one.
Getting a resistant dog comfortable with tooth brushing
Not every dog takes to tooth brushing right away, and that's completely normal. Some dogs need a gradual introduction before they're comfortable with the process, and pushing too fast tends to make the resistance worse rather than better. Patience and positive reinforcement are more effective than persistence through struggle.
Start before the toothbrush appears
Begin by getting your dog comfortable with you touching their mouth and lips before you introduce any brushing equipment. Spend a few days just gently lifting the lips, touching the teeth, and running a finger along the gum line, pairing every interaction with a treat or enthusiastic praise. This foundation makes the introduction of the toothbrush significantly smoother because the dog has already learned that mouth handling leads to good things.
Introduce the toothbrush gradually
When you do bring out the toothbrush, start by letting the dog sniff and investigate it without any pressure. Put some toothpaste on it and let them lick it off without doing any brushing at all. Do this for a few days before you attempt to actually brush anything. The goal during this phase is for the toothbrush to become a neutral or positive object rather than something unfamiliar that the dog needs to brace against.
Build duration slowly
When you begin brushing, start with just a few teeth for just a few seconds and stop while the dog is still comfortable and before they show any signs of wanting to be done. Gradually extend the duration and the area you cover over subsequent sessions as the dog's tolerance builds. This process can take days or weeks depending on the individual dog, and that timeline is completely fine. Slow and steady produces better long-term results than pushing through resistance and creating a negative association that you then have to work to undo.
For dogs with significant anxiety around mouth handling, your vet can offer additional guidance on desensitization techniques and whether any supportive products might help during the training period. All Access and Essential members can reach the Modern Animal care team through virtual care at any hour to talk through strategies for a specific dog's situation without having to come in for an appointment.
What about dental chews, water additives, and other dental products?
The dental care product market for dogs is substantial, and it can be genuinely hard to know what's worth incorporating and what's largely marketing. Here's a practical rundown of the most common options.
Dental chews can be a useful supplement to brushing, particularly for dogs that are resistant to the toothbrush or for owners who aren't able to brush as frequently as they'd like. The key is to look for products that carry the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) seal, which indicates the product has been independently tested and shown to meaningfully reduce plaque or tartar accumulation. Not all dental chews carry this seal, and those that don't have variable and often limited evidence behind them. The VOHC maintains a list of accepted products on their website that's worth checking before you buy.
Water additives that claim to reduce plaque and freshen breath are another common product category. The evidence for these is more limited than for brushing or VOHC-approved chews, but they're generally safe and may provide some modest benefit as part of a broader dental care routine. They're not a substitute for brushing, but as a low-effort addition to a routine that already includes brushing and regular professional cleanings, they're unlikely to hurt.
Dental diets, which are prescription or over-the-counter foods designed to promote a chewing action that mechanically cleans the teeth, can be helpful for some dogs. Again, look for the VOHC seal if you're considering this option, and discuss it with your vet before making a dietary change.
None of these products replace brushing or professional cleanings, but several of them can be reasonable additions to a well-rounded dental care routine.
Professional dental cleanings: what to expect and how much they cost
Even with excellent home dental care, professional dental cleanings are an important part of maintaining your dog's oral health over time. Home brushing addresses the outer surfaces of the teeth and helps prevent plaque from mineralizing into tartar, but it can't remove tartar that has already formed, and it can't address what's happening below the gum line, which is where the most significant periodontal disease develops.
Professional dental cleanings at a veterinary clinic are performed under general anesthesia. This is necessary to allow the veterinary team to safely and thoroughly clean all surfaces of the teeth, probe the gum pockets for signs of disease, take dental radiographs to assess the roots and surrounding bone, and perform any extractions or treatments that are needed. Anesthesia-free dental cleanings, which are offered by some non-veterinary providers, can remove visible tartar from the surface of the teeth but cannot address below-gum-line disease and can actually give owners a false sense of security about their dog's dental health. They are not a substitute for a proper veterinary dental cleaning and are not something our vets recommend.
How often your dog needs a professional cleaning depends on their individual oral health, breed, age, and how consistent their home care is. Some dogs do well with a cleaning every one to two years. Others, particularly smaller breeds that are more prone to dental disease, may benefit from more frequent cleanings. Your vet will make a recommendation based on what they observe during your dog's regular wellness exams, and that recommendation may change over time as your dog ages.
It's worth noting that dental radiographs, which are taken during a professional cleaning while the dog is under anesthesia, provide information that simply cannot be obtained any other way. A significant portion of dental disease in dogs occurs below the gum line and is invisible on external examination. Radiographs allow the veterinary team to assess root health, identify bone loss, and catch problems before they become more serious and more expensive to treat. Clinics that include dental radiographs as a standard part of their cleaning protocol are providing a meaningfully more thorough service than those that don't.
Costs for professional dental cleanings vary depending on the extent of the cleaning, whether dental radiographs are taken, and whether any extractions or additional treatments are needed. For a full breakdown of service and test pricing at Modern Animal, visit modernanimal.com/pricing. Everything is listed transparently so you know what to expect before you come in.
Your dog's mouth is worth paying attention to, and brushing their teeth is one of the most impactful things you can do for their long-term health at home. It doesn't have to be perfect, it doesn't have to happen every single day, and it doesn't have to be a struggle. Start simple, stay consistent, keep it positive, and build from there. The habit gets easier the longer you maintain it, and the payoff in your dog's comfort and health over their lifetime is genuinely significant.
If you have questions about your dog's dental health, want a recommendation on products or technique, or are due for a professional cleaning, come see us at a Modern Animal clinic. We're happy to take a look and help you put together a plan that works for your dog and your life. Book a visit now.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, significantly. Smaller breeds tend to have much higher rates of dental disease than larger breeds, partly because their teeth are crowded into a smaller jaw, which creates more surfaces for plaque to accumulate and makes it harder for natural chewing to provide any mechanical cleaning effect. Breeds particularly prone to dental problems include Chihuahuas, Yorkshire Terriers, Dachshunds, Pomeranians, and Shih Tzus, among others. Brachycephalic breeds with compressed facial structure, like French Bulldogs and Pugs, also tend to have more dental challenges due to tooth crowding and misalignment. If you have one of these breeds, regular brushing and more frequent professional cleanings are especially important parts of their care.
No. Human toothpaste contains fluoride and often xylitol, both of which are toxic to dogs. Even a small amount of xylitol can cause serious harm, including life-threatening drops in blood sugar. Always use toothpaste formulated specifically for dogs, which is designed to be safe for swallowing and comes in flavors dogs find appealing. Dog toothpaste is inexpensive and widely available at pet stores and vet clinics, so there's no reason to improvise with human products.
This is a common belief but not well supported by evidence. While the mechanical action of chewing dry kibble does provide some minimal abrasive effect on tooth surfaces, most kibble shatters before it makes significant contact with the teeth and provides little meaningful cleaning. Dental-specific diets formulated to promote extended chewing contact and carrying the VOHC seal are a different matter, but standard dry kibble is not a reliable substitute for brushing. The type of food your dog eats is a much less important factor in dental health than the consistency of their home brushing routine and the frequency of professional cleanings.
Some signs are visible, including yellow or brown tartar buildup on the teeth, red or inflamed gum tissue, and persistent bad breath. But because significant dental disease can be present without obvious external signs, the best way to assess your dog's dental health is through a regular wellness exam where your vet can examine the mouth directly and recommend a cleaning if one is needed. Dental radiographs taken during a professional cleaning can also reveal disease below the gum line that isn't visible on the surface, which is one of the most important reasons professional cleanings are so valuable even for dogs with apparently healthy-looking teeth.
It varies considerably from dog to dog. Some dogs, particularly puppies and dogs with naturally calm, food-motivated temperaments, take to brushing within a few sessions. Others, particularly dogs that are sensitive about their mouths or that weren't introduced to handling early, may take several weeks of gradual desensitization before they're comfortable with the full routine. The most important thing is to go at your dog's pace rather than pushing through resistance. A dog that's genuinely comfortable with brushing is much easier to maintain the habit with long term than one that tolerates it under protest. If you're struggling with a particularly resistant dog, a quick virtual care conversation with our team can help you troubleshoot the approach.
Start with a very gradual desensitization process rather than trying to brush right away. Spend time just getting your dog comfortable with you touching their mouth and lifting their lips, pairing every interaction with treats and praise. Introduce the toothbrush slowly over several days before you attempt any actual brushing. For dogs that remain resistant despite a patient and gradual approach, dental chews with the VOHC seal, water additives, and dental diets can all provide some supplementary benefit. Professional cleanings become especially important for dogs that can't tolerate home brushing. All Access and Essential members can reach our care team through virtual care at any hour to talk through desensitization strategies for their specific dog's situation.
The earlier the better. Puppies that are introduced to tooth brushing during the socialization period, roughly between eight and sixteen weeks, tend to be much more accepting of it as adults. If you have a puppy, start getting them comfortable with mouth handling and the toothbrush now, even before they have their full adult teeth. The habit and the positive association you build during puppyhood will serve you and your dog for years. If you have an adult dog that has never been brushed, it's not too late to start. The desensitization process may take longer, but most adult dogs can learn to tolerate brushing with patience and consistent positive reinforcement.